Friday 19th April

It was lovely to be back at the Garden House after what felt like too long away. It was extra exciting as the garden was opening for the National Garden Scheme. This wonderful charity has been raising money through garden visits since the 1920s and now supports a range of nursing, health and gardening charities – big and small.

There was plenty to do before the gate was opened to visitors but we started the day with our usual Friday morning routine…good strong coffee, a catch up with friends and a bit of horticulture.

Ident

The garden was looking fabulous with lots of colour from the spring flowering bulbs, especially the tulips, but these won’t last for ever and there is always a bit of a gap between spring and summer displays. Today we looked at a group of plants that are really useful – and beautiful – for filling that gap. Let’s hear it for biennials!

 Britannica describes biennials as any herbaceous flowering plant that completes its life cycle in two growing seasons. They are usually sown in the summer of the first year or will appear in your garden having self-seeded. Roots and leaves develop through the summer and autumn so the plants are substantial before growth slows down over the winter. In the second year they are already off to a good start and will produce flowers by the spring. They then set seed before dying off.

Smyrnium perfoliatum

(perfoliatum – with the leaf surrounding the stem)

This wonderfully zingy plant looks a little like a Euphorbia but is in the Apiaceae family so related to angelica, carrot and parsley among many others. It has upright, strong, ribbed stems which appear to grow right through the centres of the whorled, rounded leaves which are larger and darker at the base of the plant than at the top. In its second year, open umbels of tiny yellow-green flowers are held above the foliage. This is a great plant for cutting and arranging and will also contrast well with other spring flowers in beds and borders. It seeds around readily. Likes full sun or dappled shade in a moist, well-drained soil. Ht. up to 1m.

Lunaria annua ‘Chedglow’

(Lunaria – moon-like, annua – annual. Yes, I know it’s confusing for a biennial to be called that.)

Lunaria, or honesty, are in the Brassicaceae family so related to cabbage, sprouts, kale and mustard.  They have cross-shaped, or cruciform, flowers with four petals and two long and two short stamens.

The papery seed-pods are, indeed, moon-like especially when the outer layers have come off.

‘Chedglow’ has toothed, heart-shaped leaves in shades from dark green to deep purple and dark stems. The richly coloured purple-pink flowers appear in late spring and really do seem to glow, especially at twilight. The flowers will last through April and May then the seed pods develop extending the interest of the plant and eventually providing for self-seeding, for insects and birds, and for winter decorations. These were looking fab at GH this week. They like a moist, well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. Ht. up to 1m

Lunaria annua

Common honesty was introduced from Europe some 400 years ago and being particularly popular in Victorian times. It is known for attracting bees, beneficial insects, butterflies, moths and other pollinators. It is a caterpillar food plant and has nectar/pollen rich flowers. The flowers are a little more purple than those of ‘Chedglow’, the foliage is a fresh green and it is a touch shorter. Try to keep different types apart as they may cross pollinate with the resulting plants not coming ‘true’. Ht. up to 90cm

Lunaria annua ‘Corfu Blue’

As you can see, this variety of honesty from Corfu and other Greek islands is far more blue than the others but it is also reliably perennial rather than biennial. It develops tuber-like roots and will sucker to spread as well as self-seeding. Those blue-purple flowers are held above stems and foliage that are flushed a reddish-bronze as are the seed pods. Ht. 90cm

Erysimum ‘Sugar Rush Red’

Erysimum is a genus of about 150 species of plants in the Brassicaceae family and can be annuals, herbaceous perennials or sub-shrubs. ‘Sugar Rush’ is a series of F1 hybrid biennial wallflowers which come in a range of colours and will often continue growing and flowering beyond the usual second year, becoming perennial if the conditions are right. They will also give a second flowering in autumn if cut back after the first spring flush. Confusing huh? They are sweetly scented, quick to establish and incredibly winter-hardy, and they look good planted with tulips and other spring flowering bulbs.

Erysimum ‘Bowles Mauve’

This popular, vigorous wallflower is not a biennial. It is a perennial subshrub, sometimes short-lived depending on conditions. With its narrow, dark, grey-green leaves and upright racemes of bright purple flowers it will bloom from spring through to autumn. Highly versatile, it can look great repeat planted along a path for a formal look but also more natural in a mixed border. It can become leggy after the first couple of years – trimming lightly after flowering will help. It likes a well-drained soil in full sun and is pretty drought-tolerant once established. Ht. 50-100cm after 3-5 years. RHS AGM 🏆 and  shortlisted for the Chelsea Plant of the Centenary for the decade 1973-1982.

Here are two more perennial wallflowers…

Erysimum ‘Red Jep’

 This one has fragrant flowers in shades of red, reddish-purple and pinky-orange carried on stout stems above lance-shaped dark green leaves. It is more compact than ‘Bowles Mauve’ growing to about 30cm.

Erysimum ‘Pastel Patchwork’

This lovely cultivar has flowers that range from soft yellow to pale orange and dusky pink. It was a hugely admired by the visitors to the garden this weekend. Ht. up to 50cm.

Jobs for the week

Plant some succulents

There was a collection of random succulents and sempervivums in the potting shed that needed to be looked over, tidied then used to propagate some new plants.

Hmm…bit of a tangle…what we need is gritty compost, good eyesight and a steady hand!

Wow, that looks like a beautiful garden in miniature.

Tidy up ‘Little Dixter’

This is the first area visitors see when they come to the Garden House so it’s good to have it spick and span. There were pots to plant up with strawberries, Hostas to wrap in slug repellent wool and some rather lovely Ranunculus to plant.

Work on the dry garden

It was mainly the pots and containers in and around the dry garden that were to be tidied, weeded and, possibly, replanted. (Even the best of gardeners is not above a few strategic purchases for some instant impact!) Then some weeding and raking of the gravel.

Sort out the compost heap

We’ve been away a while so the compost had to be perused and sorted. There was some lovely stuff ready to be used so it was out with the wheelbarrow and spades.

The newly ‘cooked’ compost was spread on the herb garden – looks great!

Prick out some herbs

Unlike other seedlings which are best pricked out individually, herbs can be pricked out in lumps – think about those supermarket pots which have about a hundred plants in them!

This makes the herbs easier to harvest in useful quantities when cooking. These two look very happy in their work.

Plant out sweetpeas

The bed towards the compost bins had a large teepee support waiting for some sweetpeas to be planted. First, some twine was tied around the lower part of the support to give the young plants something to cling to – they only grow well when touching, then clinging to, something they can climb up.

Within a few weeks this should be covered in beautiful blooms. Also going in this bed were some Ammi majus to add height and frothy umbels to the mix – lovely!

We then had a good tidy up but left ourselves time to have our own cake break before visitors arrived…

The cafe, Pelham Plants’ stand and the pesky pay systems were all in place…as well as Artist in Residence, Kate Osborne…

… then it was time to open the gate. Having people looking around the garden makes you see it through new eyes. Here are some pictures showing just how gorgeous the garden was looking.

It was a wonderful couple of days and over £3200 was raised for the NGS – fantastic! Well done Bridge and everyone.

See you next time.

Friday 22nd March

It’s the time of year when everything in the garden seems to be just on the verge of bursting into life. Gardeners go from holding back from sowing seeds, or planting anything out due to the cold, to suddenly having too much to do. We are bombarded with catalogues and recommendations, we make growing and planting plans and are then running to catch up on sowing and planting. Sunny sills, greenhouses and cold-frames fill up until there’s not a useful surface to be found.

We were preparing for the busy season ahead by looking at herbaceous perennials. These are plants which live for more than two years, have non-woody soft growth, put on their growth and flower within one year then die back into dormancy over the winter. They then appear again the following spring and will repeat this pattern for years, all being well. Just don’t forget where you planted them!

Bridge had a quiz for us – a series of photos of a variety of herbaceous perennials to see if we could name the genus then match them with their name cards.

Some were easy and others not so much… Latin names were expected!

Got there in the end.

Ident

It was no surprise then that the ident this week was on herbaceous perennials, plus one or two evergreen perennials, some of which had been provided by Pelham Plants – these were further forward than the plants we might be growing ourselves and were in flower.

Pulsatilla vulgaris ‘Rubra’

(vulgaris – common)

Commonly known as red pasqueflower, this beauty looks a little like an anemone – they are in the same Ranunculaceae family. It has clumps of finely dissected, silky, downy leaves and upright stems bearing deep, pinkish-red, bell-shaped flowers which emerge from large furry buds from mid -spring. The plumed seedheads are also very attractive and extend the interest of the plant.

They grow well in fertile, well-drained soil but really don’t like very wet conditions. They need full sun so a rockery, alpine trough or gravel garden would be perfect. Once established they do not like to be moved. Ht. up to 50cm

Corydalis solida subsp. solida ‘Beth Evans’

(solida – solid or dense)

This is a fumewort, not a name I had heard before and one that doesn’t seem pretty enough for this lovely plant. The genus has been used in Chinese medicine for over a thousand years and up to the present day, variously, as a sedative, painkiller, an antibacterial and for lowering blood pressure. It has tuberous roots, softly divided grey-green foliage and upright racemes of tubular, white-flashed, sugar-pink flowers which can be deeper in colour after a very cold winter. It will be happy in full sun or partial shade in fertile, well-drained soil and is good for planting under trees and shrubs. It is pretty drought-tolerant once established. Ht. up to 50cm

Saxifrage x arendsii

(arendsii – named after German nurseryman, Georg Arends 1862 -1952)

I was not sure about the exact variety of this Saxifrage but it is possibly ‘Pixie Appleblossom’ – how cute! Sometimes these plants can be evergreen and do not die back completely but have been included as they often do. It is mat-forming with mid-green leaves arranged in a dense basal rosette. Tiny, cupped, star-shaped flowers are held on short, strong stems and will appear from March to August. They do best in full sun or light shade in very well-drained soil – they do not like soggy conditions and are prone to rotting in winter wet. Top-dressing with sharp sand can help with this. Great for alpine troughs, rock gardens or ground cover at the front of a bed. Ht. 15cm

Armeria maritima

(maritima – relating to the sea)

Thrift or sea thrift is an evergreen perennial which grows on coastal cliffs and seashores but which is also happy as a cultivated garden plant. It forms compact clumps of low growing, grass-like foliage and bright-pink clusters of flowers in round heads on soft, tall stems from late spring well into summer. It is very easy to grow and will spread around as well as being easy to divide. This is another plant perfect for rockeries, alpine troughs and for gravel gardens. Grow it in any free-draining soil in full sun. Ht. 10 – 50cm

Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’

Pulmonaria, or lungwort, can be herbaceous or semi-evergreen perennials in the Boraginaceae family, so related to forget-me-not. Every site I looked at felt that this herbaceous variety was one of the very best, with the darkest and most intensely coloured flowers. Unlike some Pulmonarias, the broad, dark-green leaves have no splodges or spots with those compact clusters of deep violet-blue flowers being the star of the show from March through to May. Bees love this plant and the flowers change from blue to pinky-purple when pollinated. Grow in fertile, moist but not waterlogged soil in full or partial shade, although some websites say it is ok in full sun too. Ht. up to 40cm RHS AGM 🏆

Primula denticulata var. alba

(denticulata – slightly toothed)

This is known as the drumstick primula. It has rosettes of oval, mid-green leaves growing from the ground, familiar to us from other primulas, these ones with that toothed edge. Tall stems grow from the centre of the the leaf whorl and are topped with spherical clusters of tightly packed, tiny, white flowers, each with a yellow eye. They flower throughout the spring, sometimes into early summer before flowers and foliage die back. It likes sun or partial shade but must have moist conditions. It looks good under shrubs or at the front of a border and is also suitable for bog gardens and pond margins. Ht. up to 45cm

Brunnera macrophylla ‘Silver Heart’

(macrophylla – with large leaves)

This is another plant in the Boraginaceae family with flowers which resemble forget-me-nots. However, this Siberian bugloss has large, thick, ovate or heart-shaped leaves, mainly silver with fine veins and edges of green which form low-growing clumps.

Airy sprays of clear-blue flowers are held above the foliage throughout spring. They are easy to grow and like a moist but well-drained soil in full or partial shade. Ht. up to 45cm

Jobs for the week

Pot on plants for summer displays

Plants destined for summer pots have been growing quietly for weeks and now needed to be potted on. They will put on lots of new growth between now and planting out so will fill their containers better for more impact.

There was Plectranthus ciliatus and argentifolius, Gomphrena and Argyranthemum among others.

They look very pleased to be in the greenhouse on this chilly day.

Work in and near the dry garden

The step-by-step care of the dry garden continued with this group doing the right thing by spending time looking first…

…then once the looking was done they could start the clearing, pruning and tidying . There were some Verbascums to be planted too.

Beautiful!

Work on “Paul’s bed”

The area behind the beech hedge is a large, mixed bed and there was plenty to be done. The Clematis Perle d’ Azur had to be pruned – this being about the last date for pruning Group 3 clematis.

This was a chance to take some cuttings and for someone to head to the greenhouse…

Hopefully, that will be several free plants in no time at all. There was lots of clearing and cutting back to do too.

It’s a great start but there will be more work on this bed in the next few weeks.

Clear and plant under the arches

There were lots of Spanish bluebells and Celandine (the weedy type) to be removed from the rose arches beds. Then some Verbena bonariensis, Lychnis and Osteospermum to be dotted through for summer height and colour.

It’s very exciting to think what this revamped area will look like in a couple of months.

Plant up the cut-flower beds

The grid made for the raised bed last week was due to be planted up, along with the other two beds.

Each plant was put in its own square. As they grow, the grid will be raised to support each plant individually. Going in were…

Orlaya grandiflora

Antirrhynum ‘Apple Blossom’

Centaurea cyanus ‘Blue’

Nigella ‘African Bride’

Centaurea cyanus ‘Blackball’

Ammi visnaga

More plants going in on the other beds too.

This bed was planted with…

Antirrhynum (red)

Scabiosa ‘Drumstick’

Eschscholzia californica ‘Thai Silk’

These flowers are being grown for cutting but they will look wonderful in the beds while they wait their turn.

Just enough time for Easter cakes and to be looked after by our Deputy Catering Manager… thank you bakers and Hilary!

The blog is taking a break for a few weeks – see you in late April.

Friday 15th March

We started the day, as we occasionally do, with a poem…

Worm Moon (excerpt)

In March the earth remembers its own name.

Everywhere the plates of snow are cracking.

The rivers begin to sing. In the sky the winter stars are sliding away; new stars appear as, later, small blades of grain will shine in the dark fields.

And the name of every place is joyful.

by Mary Oliver

Ident

This week we are looking at pretty flowers of early spring bulbs and other early flowering plants.

Tulipa sylvestris

(sylvestris – growing in woodlands)

This small, delicate species tulip is sometimes known as the wild or woodland tulip. It is now considered to be native to the UK as it has naturalised and spread but was probably introduced from warmer climes at some point in the 17th century. It has bright yellow, pointed petals with a green rib and a soft, citrusy scent. They do really well in short grass but are also good in borders or containers. They like a moist but well-drained soil and full sun or light shade.

Plant out in groups from October. If planting in pots, make sure they get enough water over the winter. Ht. 20cm

Narcissus ‘Minnow’

This beautiful dwarf variety has tiny creamy white blooms with a brighter, sunshine yellow centre. The delicate stems can each carry up to five gorgeously fragrant flowers. If planted in beds and borders they will form clumps and spread quite quickly. They are also great for spring pots and containers either on their own or alongside other spring plants.

They like a moist but well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. After flowering, remove the stems and leave the foliage to die back – this will feed the bulb for the next year and encourage clumping. Ht. 18cm. RHS AGM🏆

Chionodoxa luciliae ‘Pink Giant’ syn. Scilla

(from Greek words chion meaning snow and doxa meaning glory, luciliae was after Lucile Boissier the wife of Swiss Botanist Pierre Edmond Boissier)

Glory of the snow is so called as it flowers in May to June in the mountains of its native western Turkey as the snow is melting. This variety is slightly bigger than some other Scillas but is just as delicate with its soft-pink star-shaped flowers. This is another plant which will naturalise and spread easily both in lightly shaded areas under trees where it will light up the ground, or in sunny borders containers and pots, flowering for weeks.

Disease-resistant, easy to grow and very low maintenance, it just needs any well-drained soil. Ht. 15cm

Veronica peduncularis syn. Veronica umbrosa

(peduncularis – with a flower stalk)

This speedwell is related to the Veronica persica (see 23rd February) which is seen as a weed and runs rampant through our borders and lawns. However, this cultivar is quite different – I think it is probably ‘Georgia Blue’, a vigourous, semi-evergreen perennial with wiry stems and young foliage which are tinted a reddish-bronze and which form a low-growing cushiony mat. Masses of intense blue flowers in loose racemes appear from late spring to autumn. It is lovely along border and path edges or left to ramble over rockeries and walls.

It needs full sun or light shade and a moist, well-drained soil but can cope with drier conditions once established. Ht. 10cm RHS AGM🏆

Ficaria verna ‘Brazen Hussy’

(verna – relating to spring)

This is another plant related to one of the weeds covered last month. It is a different form of lesser celandine and it won’t become such a nuisance as the wild variety. I’m not sure why Christopher Lloyd, who discovered it, named it ‘Brazen Hussy’, (a term bandied about freely in some of our pasts – in jest and otherwise!) or what the plant did to deserve it but it made me laugh. It is a tuberous rooted, mat-forming perennial with the most amazing blackish-bronze leaves and contrasting buttercup yellow flowers in spring. It is great for early groundcover under deciduous shrubs as it will die back completely after flowering just as the shrubs are coming into leaf.

It likes moist but well-drained soil in full or partial shade and is fully hardy. These will seed around but may eventually produce inferior plants so remove any that don’t come up to scratch. Ht. 10cm

Jobs for the week

Work on the dry garden

It was the area near and under the olive tree that was to be looked at this week. There was the Veronica peduncularis – speedwell – mentioned earlier to be moved and cuttings taken with the same being done with the Santolinas.

Then, as with last week, the area was carefully weeded and tidied, keeping a close eye out for emerging plants.

Make a support grid for annual cut flowers

The three raised beds will be planted with various flowers this year and one of them is due to have flowers for cutting. Last year we made a support grid which worked well so a repeat was just the job.

Measure, hold still, tie! Then repeat…

A wonderful, neat job done. The three beds are bare but rather sculptural with the supports waiting for their plants.

Work in the greenhouse

A lot of the sweetpeas had grown enough to be potted on. This gives the roots space to develop before the plants are planted out where they are to flower. Not everyone has the space to do this and you can keep them in their root trainers or loo roll inners until it is time to plant.

There were Nerines, some new bulbs and some pot-bound plants, and Dianthus caryophyllus – clove pink cuttings to pot up too.

Pink all the way!

Plant some annuals

Some of the early sown hardy annuals, including Ammi, were ready to plant out and were destined for the bed under the apple tree. The chives on the lower beds needed to be divided followed by general weeding and a tidy up of the beds and paths.

Gardening by committee?

Sometimes weeding can be very satisfying… that looks fab!

See you soon.

Friday 8th March

It was all about the seeds today at the Garden House. The rate of sowing is ramping up and it was time to have a closer look at, and a reminder of, how best to sow these magical, tiny bundles of potential.

There are many suggestions about how best to sow – compost, containers etc. – but this is how we do it at G.H. As always Bridge was on hand to show us how…

This was a mix of general purpose compost, garden compost and leafmould, sieved to take out any large bits. Overfill your pot and strike off the excess with your hand. Tap the pot on the table and tamp down with a tamper or the base of another pot. The soil should then have an even surface just below the rim of your pot.

If your seeds are really tiny (some are like dust), they can be mixed with fine, dry sand to make it easier to sow them evenly. A test-tube is good for this. Some seeds have instructions to sow in situ outside but, as long as they are handled gently and the tap roots are not damaged, sowing into pots gives the plants more chance of surviving and gives you choice of where to place them later in the year.

Add a small quantity of seed to the sand (you probably don’t want 500 of the same plant), shake to mix then sprinkle across your pot in lines, first one way then turn the pot to go again. Keep going until the surface of the soil is covered. These tiny seeds generally need light to germinate so cover them with a fine layer of vermiculite which lets the light through but will give some protection and prevent moss and mould growth.

If the seeds are bigger, distribute them by hand as evenly across the pot as possible. These will probably need a covering of compost so use a sieve to get a fine covering.

It was our turn! We were each given a packet of hardy annuals to sow.

Not forgetting to label them properly – including the colour of the plant – very important when planning planting schemes for the summer. The pots were put in trays to be watered from below so the seeds were not washed around.

How exciting!

Ident – winter twigs

Aesculus hippocastanum

(hippocastanum – Latin name for this species derived from hippos in the Greek meaning a ‘horse’ and castanea in the Latin meaning the chestnut)

Mature horse chestnut trees grow to a height of around 40m and can live for up to 300 years. The bark is smooth and pinky-grey when young, which darkens and develops scaly plates with age. Twigs are hairless and stout; buds are oval, dark red, shiny and sticky. The leaf scars left on twigs after the leaves have fallen have a distinctive horseshoe shape, complete with seven “nails”.

They are susceptible to horse chestnut scale and horse chestnut leaf minor (Cameraria ohridella) with the later being more of a threat.

Betula utilis var. jacquemontii

(utilis – useful)

The elegant Himalayan birch is highly ornamental and, therefore, hugely popular.Its architectural shape and open habit combined with that stunning peeling, papery, tactile bark make it a favourite for use as a single specimen tree or planted in groups if you are lucky enough to have the space. It can also be coppiced to encourage a multi-stemmed shrub shape. It is set off beautifully against a clear, blue, winter sky while in spring and summer it bears delicate mid-green oval leaves that catch the breeze. Will grow pretty much anywhere, in any soil. Ht. up to 8m.

Ginka biloba

(biloba – with two lobes)

The maidenhair tree is fascinating. The Kew Gardens website states – It is one of the oldest living tree species in the world and the sole survivor of an ancient group of trees that date back to before dinosaurs roamed the Earth – between 245 and 66 million years ago. It’s so ancient, the species is known as a ‘living fossil‘ and the oldest recorded maidenhair tree is 3,500 years old. The tree is also the only living connection between ferns and conifers.

 It is the only member of its genus (Ginkgo), which is the only genus in its family (Ginkgoaceae), which is the only family in its order (Ginkgoales), which is the only order in its subclass (Ginkgoidae). Got that?!

It is deciduous, up to 25m, conical when young then becoming more irregular shaped with age. Leaves are up to 12cm in width, fan-shaped and often bilobed, turning clear yellow in autumn. Dull yellow fruits which can smell horrible appear in autumn on female plants!

Amelanchier lamarckii

(lamarkii – for the French naturalist Jean-Baptiste Lamarck 1744–1829)

This Garden House favourite is otherwise known as juneberry or snowy mespilus, and is a large, upright, deciduous shrub or tree with an open, multi-stemmed habit. The leaves emerge with a bronze tinge then mature to a glossy green before turning to wonderful shades of orange and red in the autumn. Delicate racemes of star-shaped flowers emerge alongside the young leaves, later maturing into red-purple fruits loved by birds.

It prefers a neutral to acid, well-drained but moist soil in sun or partial shade. This is a wonderful addition to any garden for year-round interest. Ht. up to 10m. RHS AGM 🏆

Corylus avellana contorta

(avellana – connected with Avella, Italy)

I wrote about this a few weeks ago but it’s worth revisiting – springtime wouldn’t be the same without the pale yellow “lambs tail” catkins of the hazel. Those catkins are the male parts of the plant while the female buds sit just behind the point where catkin meets stem. Hazel is good for small gardens as it can be controlled and shaped by pruning without any ill-effects. It is a deciduous shrub with strongly twisted branches which are highly sculptural against a winter sky. Those golden yellow catkins appear on the bare branches in late winter followed by fresh green slightly twisted leaves.

Full sun or partial shade in moist, well-drained soil. RHS AGM 🏆

Jobs for the week

Sorting and sowing seeds

Carrying on from the sowing masterclass there were seeds to sow but also research to be done on the sowing requirements of different seeds.

These sleuths were looking up information to find the best methods of sowing. The German seed suppliers, Jelitto, have a “sowing directions” list with each type of sowing requirement listed and numbered from 1 to 20. Then each type of seed is given a corresponding number. This can be really handy when sowing seed saved from the garden and without a packet!

Putting it all into practice – sowing perennials and keeping good records!

Work in the dry garden

It has been such a wet winter that it’s tempting to rename this area. Today the group was looking carefully at one patch to see if any plants had been lost, to tidy and to plant some Gladioli.

It’s worth taking time over this as plants assumed to be lost to the cold and wet might just be emerging.

Going in were Gladiolus tristis. How gorgeous are they?

Plant up the urns

Bridge had taken delivery of some young yews to be planted in the urns that had been emptied a couple of weeks ago. Some of them were a bit too big so they needed to have their roots and top growth pruned.

This looks like a drastic course of action but, done carefully, will not harm the plant and will encourage bushy growth from the base.

Some of us are withholding judgement on whether we like the look until they have established a bit more….watch this space!

Tend to the winter garden

There was a lot of lesser celendine (see the weed ident from two weeks ago) to be cleared from the winter garden and a snigger-inducing Rubus cockburnianus to be cut back.

The Rubus and some stems cut from the Lonicera fragrantissima – winter honeysuckle – were cut to make hardwood cuttings and the Daphne was shaped a little too giving us fragrant cuttings to take home.

It was very satisfying to see the end results. Then it was time for a break, cake and a chat in the glorious, much appreciated sunshine.

It wouldn’t be the same without the cake.

See you next time.

Friday 1st March

It’s March…hooray! February seemed to last forever. The weather gods decided to throw everything at us in celebration.

Pruning – a brief guide

We had been asked to bring in a branches from shrubs in our gardens as today we were looking at pruning.

Get to know your shrub!

There are some general rules but different shrubs need different levels of pruning.

• Some shrubs need very little pruning other than the removal of dead, diseased and damaged wood; others should be pruned very hard in spring, e.g. Buddleia.
• Shrubs grown for ornamental stems should be pruned to within a few centimetres of the ground in very early spring, e.g. Cornus (dogwood) and Salix (willow).
• Evergreen shrubs require little pruning – only to contain the size and shape, in early spring, after the frosts but before they put on new growth. Others can be clipped in summer e.g. Eleagnus and Buxus sempervirens (box), but not too late as new growth could be damaged by early winter frosts.
• Flowering shrubs…it all depends on when they flower. There are rules…

Spring or early summer flowering shrubs which finish flowering before the middle of June. These flower on the previous year’s growth so should be pruned immediately after flowering giving the plant enough time to produce new stems for the following year.

Shrubs that flower throughout the summer and after mid-June. These are flowering on the current year’s stem growth and should be pruned the following spring after the winter and when the danger of frost has passed . They will put on enough growth between pruning and the summer for flowers to form.

Types of pruning

• Formative pruning. This is used on young plants to provide a good framework shape ready for future growth.
• Pruning back to a bud or a lateral. This encourages the growth of new shoots to make the plant more bushy and can also encourage flowering and fruiting.
• Renewal pruning. This is used when a shrub has become congested. Remove 1 in 3 or 1 in 4 of the older stems, cutting right to the bottom. This allows room for new, more productive growth to flourish.
• Renovation or remedial pruning. This is a drastic course of action for when a shrub is old and/or completely overgrown. Cut the whole shrub down to the ground just leaving a base, then cross your fingers!
• Deadheading. This is used for shrubs, perennials and annual plants and keeps the plants looking tidy as well as encouraging new flowers to form.
• ‘Chelsea chop’. So called as the optimum date for pruning in this way coincides with the Chelsea Flower Show in late May. This means cutting back the height of hardy perennials by a third to a half to prevent them getting leggy, reduce the need for staking, encourage bushiness and to delay flowering until later in the summer.

Good luck!

Ident

Bridge had been buying plants. Nothing unusual in that but this time she’d been tempted by houseplants.

Scindapsus

There is a possibility that this devil’s ivy might not be Scindapsus at all but a Pothos. They are both part of the Araceae family but Pothos is in the epipremnum genus, whereas Scindapsus is its own genus. They are often named as both…this is not helpful. If it is a Scindapsus it is a very easy, tough, adaptable plant that is tolerant of varying light levels as long as it’s not in direct sun. Water once a week but avoid leaving it in standing water. Don’t worry if it dries out – mine is appallingly neglected and just keeps going.

Platycerium bifurcatum

(bifurcatum – divided into equal stems or branches)

A staghorn fern is an epiphytic plant, which means it grows on other plants or objects for support but is not parasitic. This type of fern is known for its shape that mimics deer or elk antlers. The fern has two distinct leaf forms—small, flat leaves (known as shield fronds) that cover and protect the root ball structure and take up water and nutrients and green, pronged antler fronds that emerge from this base and can reach up to a metre in length indoors.

They grow best in bright but indirect light in warm and humid conditions. Water regularly but allow the base to dry out in-between watering. Feed it once a month during spring and summer. These plants can be mounted on a lump of moss or compacted compost fixed to a vertical surface and hung up, mimicking how they grow in the wild.

Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia, or dumb cane, is a genus of tropical perennials with several species that are commonly grown as houseplants. The plant contains raphides – needle-shaped crystals of calcium oxalate occurring in clusters within the tissues. These are defensive mechanisms that repel browsing animals. Ingestion of the leaves causes stinging and burning of the mouth for a couple of weeks. In humans, this reaction can hinder speech which explains the common name.

They do well in dappled or partial shade but might need bright, indirect light in the winter. Humidity and regular watering, a moist but not waterlogged compost with good drainage, and a soluble feed during summer months will keep it happy.

Plerandra elegantissima

(elegantissima – very elegant)

Known as false aralia, this gorgeous, airy plant is native to New Caledonia, a small island in the pacific seas. Its leaves are thin, coppery red to dark green with toothed edges and consist of 7 or 8 fingers. This is another plant that needs a humid spot in bright, indirect light and it really doesn’t like the cold so make sure the temperature doesn’t dip too low at night. It doesn’t like to be moved around too much either…apart from all that it’s easy-peasy!

Phymatosorus scolopendria syn. Microsorum scolopendria

(scolopendria – from a supposed likeness of the underside of its fronds to a millipede or centipede)

This strongly rhizomatous fern grows in the wild in the Western Pacific rim from Australia to New Caledonia to Fiji and throughout the South Pacific but is commonly grown as a houseplant. It has many common names including monarch fern and wart fern.  Deeply sunken sori (types of spore) on the frond undersides result in wart-like bumps on the upper-sides, hence the common name but these are not visible on young leaves.

They are slow-growing and develop hairy roots capable of absorbing water and nutrition. They need to be kept moist with regular watering and misting.

Davillia

This last plant is, I think, a rabbit’s foot fern but it might be a hare’s foot or a squirrel’s foot fern…I kid you not. What I do know is that while some people find this gorgeous and fascinating, others can’t be in the same room. These ferns do best in consistently moist compost in dappled light or partial shade conditions. Indoors, a north-facing or east-facing window is ideal. Never expose them to direct sunlight unless they’ve been carefully acclimated. They also grow well under artificial lights.

I found and used a great site for indoor plant care while writing this – many thanks to “The Spruce” website, based in the U.S. I think.

Jobs for the week

Re-pot and propagate some houseplants

After looking at new houseplants there were also some of the older ones to tend to. Bridge had seen some creative ways of propagating succulents so we had a go ourselves. One way was to remove individual leaves, sew them onto a thread, mist them well and hang them up.

You learn something new every day!

Another attractive idea was to plant in concentric circles or a spiral.

We’ll wait and see how both of these turn out.

Work on Little Dixter

This is the area just outside the garden room and it needed a general tidy-up, existing plants tended to and some new ones planted.

Bridge had been shopping for colour!

Looking good.

Re-plant a container in the front garden.

One of the large containers had a lot of ivy growing in it which had become congested and tangle. Time for a re-think…

There was masses of ivy to untangle and divide for people to take home.

Lovely!

Plant some alpines.

Some of the alpine containers were due for some additions.

The RHS website states, “Alpines are small and highly collectable plants, producing exquisite little flowers in a range of vibrant hues. As they come from mountainous regions, many are very hardy. They’re easy to grow too, as long as you give them sharply draining compost. They thrive in containers, where a small collection can create a cheery display all year round.” Can’t think why I haven’t tried them yet.

See you next time.

Friday 23rd February

The Hellebores are looking fantastic at the Garden House with enough variety to inspire this artful bowl of floating blooms.

Not so welcome at this time of year are emerging weeds which seem to get a head-start on everything else, can be confused with precious plants and will compete for space, nutrients and light. So this week…

Ident – Weeds currently in the garden

Gallium aparine

(aparine – clinging or seizing, from the Greek, apairo?)

I would tell you all the other common names for this annual cleaver but the RHS website lists 33 so I’d be here all day. Just a few include bur weed, cling rascal, stick-a-back and sticky willy. All of those refer to the adhesive quality caused by small, hook-like hairs that cover the stems and leaves, which aid the plant in scrabbling over the ground and other plants. Tiny, greenish-white flowers appear from early spring which develop into burr-like fruits which are also covered in hook hairs. These can attach to animal fur or human clothing which aids the dispersal of seed. Cleavers are edible and have been used as a diuretic but use the young growth and cook to soften those hooks. The seeds can be dried and used as an alternative to coffee – they are in the same family – Rubiaceae.

They germinate early in cold conditions but are easily recognisable and removed from the soil.

Valerianella sp.

“Down a rabbit hole” doesn’t do justice to the journey I’ve been on with this weed. Initially, I had recorded it as Valeriana and became most confused when the images I looked up didn’t match. I had assumed it was a Valerian which are lovely – even the weedy type. But, this is related to Valerianella locusta , lamb’s lettuce, cornsalad or mâche, in the Caprifoliaceae family. There are several species of Valerianella but I haven’t been able to pin down which this is.

Whatever it is, it is fairly easily spotted and pulled up.

Ficaria verna

(verna – relating to spring)

Lesser celandine  is a low-growing, early flowering, hairless perennial flowering plant in the buttercup family Ranunculaceae. Although a welcome sight in the wild and a good source of nectar for early pollinators, they are invasive and can crowd out and smother other plants and take over lawns in domestic gardens. It was once thought that you could use lesser celandine to predict the weather as they close their petals before rain falls. The leaves are high in vitamin C and have been used to prevent scurvy.

They spread through underground tubers, are highly persistent and tend to grow through other plants and so are difficult to remove entirely. If you really like them they make excellent ground-cover!

Euphorbia peplus

(peplus – a robe of state)

Petty spurge or milkweed is an annual with greeny-yellow flowers that have no petals or sepals, but are held in cup-shaped bracts and appear in clusters. The leaves are bright-green and oval. It spreads readily as the miniscule seeds explode into the air and are very persistent, some germinating after 50 or 100 years, and will germinate in all but the very coldest weather. I should know – they are all over my garden.

However, the root system is weak and they are easily pulled up, especially if caught when small. Be aware that like any Euphorbia, the milky sap is an extreme irritant so gloves on when clearing them from your garden.

Veronica persica

(persica – connected with Persia)

The common field speedwell is one of those plants that blurs the line between wildflower and weed. It is very pretty in flower and is being left in place more often now that planting trends favour the less formal look. The four-petalled, tiny flowers are a gorgeous, clear blue and the leaves are toothed and slightly hairy. This annual prefers moist conditions and grows well in loamy soil and  often sprawls along the ground before rising to flower.

It does spread quickly and can become a nuisance but is fairly easy to remove if needed.

Anchusa officinalis

(officinalis – sold in shops hence a useful plant)

Another case of “One gardener’s weed…” as this is definitely seen as a weed at the Garden House yet is sold as both plants and seed commercially. Alkanet, or common bugloss, is a biennial (sometimes perennial) plant in the Boraginaceae family which grows up to 1m tall and has spikes of attractive blue flowers. Why is this a weed? Well, it self seeds very easily and spreads quickly, each plant takes up a lot of space and, although the flowers are attractive, they are sparse…there are cultivated forms which have better density and colour of flower. They are also prone to powdery mildew which makes the leaves scruffy and unhealthy looking.

They are quite deep-rooted so may take some pulling to get them out.

Cardamine hirsuta

(hirsuta – hairy)

Hairy bittercress is a hardy annual or biennial species of plant in the family Brassicaceae and is a native wildflower, edible to humans and attractive to moths, butterflies and hoverflies. The leaves have a peppery, cress-like flavour and make a good addition to salads

The basal rosette of leaves is low-growing but the flower stalks reach up to 30cm. When the seedpods are ripe the seeds are dispersed explosively for up to 1m if the plants are shaken by the wind or by weeding operations. The seeds become sticky when wet and can be spread on tools and clothing.

While this is in many ways a useful plant, it is a nuisance in the garden as it multiplies readily and has persistent seeds. The plants the compete for water, nutrients and light. Easily removed but mind the exploding seed pods!

Sonchus oleraceus

(oleraceus – used as a vegetable)

Common sow thistle (it too has many other common names) is one of eight species of sow thistle growing in the UK. They strongly resemble dandelions and are in the same family – Asteraceae. Leaves can be eaten as salad greens or cooked like spinach with the younger leaves being more palatable. They are also attractive for pigs (hence sow thistle) and rabbits and hares. However, like the dandelion, they produce masses of wind-blown seed which will germinate just about anywhere and are considered an invasive species in some parts of the world as they compete with crops.

Digging them out, removing as much root as possible, as soon as they appear and hoeing seedlings will help to keep them at bay. Failing that, a flame thrower might just suffice.

Jobs for the week

Planting out Hellebores and more

Bridge had acquired some beautiful Hellebores to add to those already in the garden. They were dotted along the terraces in an expert manner.

There was also a Chaenomeles to be trained up a wall near a water butt and piping to distract from the plumbing…

Give it a few months and it will be wall-to-wall greenery.

Re-home the Libertia

There are a number of lovely terracotta urns around the terraces, containing striking Libertia plants – almost grass-like relatives of Irises.

These have been in place for some time and have great impact in the autumn and winter, especially on sunny days. However, Bridge felt that they jarred with the spring and summer planting and that it was time for a change. They were to be relocated to the winter bed and Bridge has plans to replace them with unclipped, free-growing yew.

Some of them were divided and potted up to grow on. The ones planted out in the winter garden had instant impact, looking brilliant and lighting up the area. Watch this space to see the plans for the the urns evolve.

Prune the Sambucus

This is the right time of year to prune Sambucus, or black elder. This is always a favourite among us Friday groupers with its finely cut, almost black foliage, delicate white pink-flushed blooms and deep, red-black berries. To keep it in check and produce the best coloured leaves it needs hard pruning. There were two to tackle…

It’s a good chance to take hardwood cuttings…

Now, some of us have tried these before with no success but we’re always up for trying again -potential free shrubs!

Weed and thin-out the wildflower meadow

All that weed identification earlier was not just an empty exercise…all those weeds have been growing in the wildflower meadow just as the flower seedlings are germinating alongside Tulips and Narcissi. It’s quite crowded in there so it was time to remove the weeds and thin out plants such as corncockle, Agrostemma githago, which might crowd out other plants.

It was a surprisingly fiddly job but very satisfying and gave ample time for catching up with each other. The surplus corncockles were removed carefully enough for people to take home to pot up and eventually plant out.

Agrostemma githago

To finish, here are some ways of arranging your early spring flowers should you be lucky enough to have some.

A ring vase.

In a shallow bowl using a lashed wooden lattice grid to slot the stems in.

Use a Niwaki flower “frog” – a new one on me! Brass pins are set closely together in a weighty metal base to support stems.

How inventive…they look great Bridge!

Friday 9th February

Signs in the Garden House that spring is just around the corner.

It was good to be back at the Garden House and to see Bridge on her return from New Zealand and Japan.

Bridge had asked us to bring in examples of flowers we could find blooming in our gardens. Some of us struggled to find any that weren’t slug-eaten but there was a surprising range of different flowers.

Bridge wanted us to look at, then have a go at “flat lays”, a current trend in the crossover between floristry, art and design, and photography. This uses whole flowers and leaves, or just selected parts or petals, laid onto a surface which contrasts or compliments, to create a two-dimensional design to be viewed from a “top-down” perspective. The technique is used for many things (who doesn’t love Instagramming their meals?!) but is very effective when used with flowers and plants.

Here are a few examples from social media – there are hundreds out there…

…and here is a another from our very own creative photographer, Sarah K.

This was created using acorn cases laid on a garage floor…stunning!

We all had a go at laying our flowers out on white paper in as artistic a way as possible.

The results were really pleasing and most of us enjoyed the process very much. The results were then combined, positioned and photographed from above by a group of fearless gardeners…

Steady now…

Wonderful!

Ident

For the ident this week I have chosen some of the flowers from the flat lay.

Hellebore

Hellebores, or Lenten/winter/Christmas rose, are a genus of about 20 species of plants in the Ranunculaceae family. They are great for adding structure and colour to the winter garden with most flowering from January right through to May. There are many cultivars of this elegant nodding plant, offering a wide range of subtle colours, and with some now being bred to have more upright blooms.

Generally, they are happiest in a woodland edge setting , growing in fertile, moist soil in partial shade but are able to cope with a range of conditions, even full sun as long as the soil doesn’t dry out and the temperatures get too high. They won’t, however, thrive in waterlogged, boggy sites.  Cut back the large leathery leaves when flowers and new foliage emerge and mulch plants annually with well-rotted compost or manure. Hellebores don’t like to be disturbed once established so dividing them is not likely to be successful. They seed around readily though so collecting seed to propagate would be easier but these new plants won’t come “true”. They cross pollinate easily and you might find a new hybrid! Ht. 30 – 90cm depending on the cultivar.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen, or sowbread/swinebread, is a genus of 23 species of perennial flowering plants in the family Primulaceae and range from tender through to very hardy, some suitable for alpine planting through to woodland species. In cultivation it is possible to have cyclamen in flower in the garden or greenhouse in every month of the year. Cyclamen species are native to Europe and the Mediterranean Basin east to the Caucasus and Iran, with one species in Somalia. Most like an alkaline soil or one that is as close to neutral as possible.

Cyclamen persicum originate from the Mediterranean and are generally bred as house plants as they are not hardy. They will flower indoors for up to six weeks through autumn or winter if they don’t get too hot. They can be kept after they die back in spring, as long as they are kept dormant in a cool place and watered sparingly

C. persicum

C. persicum

Cyclamen hederifolium is hardy and tough with flowers appearing in autumn followed by their ivy-like leaves. They can be planted in the most difficult, sparse sites as long as there is some shade and will naturalise readily.

C. hederifolium

Cyclamen coum comes from slightly cooler, damper areas than some of the other Mediterranean species. It is hardy down to very low temperatures and flowers from December to April. They like fertile moist soil so keep watered in the summer.

C. coum

C. coum

There are many other species, each with slightly different origins, features and requirements…head to the Cyclamen Society website to find out more.

Crocus

Crocuses are a genus of about 100 species of flowering plants in the Iridaceae family native to Eastern Europe. They grow from corms and their stems remain largely underground. There are varieties which flower in autumn as well as those more common in our gardens which flower from late winter into spring. They generally prefer a sunny, well-drained site but will be happy on most soils including chalk. Propagation by division of established clumps works with most species except for C. tommasinianus – the woodland crocus – which likes to be crowded.

C. tommasinianus

C. flavus

C. vernus

Autumn flowering species include C. speciosus and C. sativus. C. sativus is the saffron crocus which is known to have been used throughout recorded history as a spice and for dyeing. The saffron part is the three long, red stigmas and, although the flowers are easy to grow, it takes about 150 flowers to produce one gram of saffron and is worth more than its equivalent weight in gold.

C. sativus

C. speciosus

Chaenomeles

Chaenomeles, often referred to as Japanese quince, is a genus of four species of deciduous, spiny shrubs in the Roseaceae family. If you have a “Japanese” quince it may well be C. x superba or C. speciosa instead of C. japonica as the term is used widely. They are related to the quince tree – Cydonia oblonga and Chinese quince – Pseudocydonia sinensis.

C. speciosa

C. x superba

C. japonica

Apart from the colour I would struggle to tell the difference…they are all surprisingly easy to grow as stand-alone shrubs, in pots or trained up a wall. Flowers appear, often on bare stems, from late winter through to spring, followed by foliage of simple, alternate, slightly serrated leaves and aromatic fruits. They are fully hardy and will grow in most reasonable soils in full sun or partial shade.

These elegant, striking plants are joyful in the late winter weeks and have inspired many artists and photographers…just like our own Katie who posted this stunning image…

Beautiful.

Iris reticulata

(reticulata – netted)

These tiny Irises are grown from bulbs and are among the first to flower in the spring. Plant them in pots and bowls or at the front of a spring border. The species name, reticulata, refers to a kind of fibrous netting which surrounds the bulbs. Stiffly upright, narrow leaves are followed by delicate, scented flowers with intricate, splash-like markings on the outer, “falls” petals.

Jobs for the week

Sow seeds

Seeds due to be sown this week included Cleome, Cobea, Nicotiana langsdorffii and several varieties of sweet pea – ‘Lord Nelson’, ‘Matucana’, ‘Cupani’, Cupid Pink’ and ‘Mrs Collier’.

The dream team.

Also being sown were some species Petunia exserta seeds saved from last years plants. This is a rare, wild form and is thought to be at risk of extinction…not if we can help it!

And they even remembered to log everything in the seed book…

Fill some gabions

There were a couple more gabions to be filled with the last of the flints from the fallen wall.

This has made good use of stuff that would otherwise have gone to landfill and has provided more support, structure and texture to the hard landscaping

Potting on

There were a few Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’ and Plectranthus ‘Mona Lavender’ cuttings to be potted on and we had just the people for the task..

Free plants!

Make a kokedama

According to Wikipedia, Kokedama is a ball of soil, covered with moss, on which an ornamental plant grows. The idea has its origins in Japan, where it is a combination of the nearai bonsai and kusamono planting styles. Today, Kokedama is very popular in Japanese gardens so it was only right that we should give it a go!

First, gather your plants, moss and twine. Then tip your chosen plant out carefully (we had beautiful clumps of snowdrops) and form the soil into a rough ball. Cover the ball with moss, holing it together with twine or fine fishing line. Our kokedamas were to be hung up so balancing the weight evenly was the biggest challenge.

We then hung them from the apple tree branches so they could be seen from the garden room.

A lovely addition to anyone’s list of floristry skills!

See you next time.

Friday 2nd February

This week we went, en masse, to work with Paul at the marvellous Pelham Plants nursery.

We were greeted by Paul and volunteer Phil in the large, atmospheric shed… a sort of combined tool/potting/teaching space where our customary morning coffee awaited.

Paul’s garden is designed for nursery production…the plants in it are there to be used for propagating the perennial plants he sells from spring through to autumn, by division, cuttings and seed collection. This means that however stunning the garden looks for the rest of the year, in winter it is relatively bare. However, there was still plenty to look at and admire…

Ident

Lonicera fragrantissima

(fragrantissima – very fragrant)

This hardy, winter-flowering shrub is either deciduous or semi-evergreen, depending on conditions, and bears pairs of gorgeous, highly fragrant, creamy-white flowers on almost leafless branches in mild spells between December and March. The paired leaves are a rich, mid-green and, as Paul described it, the shrub tends to be massive and wayward!

Dullish red berries follow on from the flowers in spring. It will grow in any moist but well-drained soil but does well on Paul’s clay too. It doesn’t mind an exposed site but will produce the best flowers if trained against a sunny wall. Ht. up to 2.5m.

Sarcococca confusa

(confusa – confused or uncertain, probably in relation to how it was hybridised)

Also known as sweet box or Christmas box, this hardy, dense, evergreen shrub has lustrous, ovate, slightly wavy-edged leaves of deep green. Sweetly-scented, tiny white flowers appear in tight bunches from December to March and are offset by the dark foliage. Shiny, black berries form later.

It is slow-growing and may drop some leaves but is tough and will grow in most moist but well-drained soils. It prefers to be in partial shade, out of midday sun. Plant near the house or a path to make the most of the heady, vanilla-like wafts of fragrance. Ht. up to 1.5m

Galanthus elwesii

(elwesii – named after British plant collector Henry John Elwes 1846-1922)

Galanthus, or snowdrops, take their name from the Greek –  ‘gala’, meaning milk, and ‘anthos’, meaning flower. They are extraordinarily hardy and herald the end of winter (we hope) but actually flower for longer in colder, gloomier weather. This one is known as the greater or giant snowdrop and is larger than the species snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis. The strap-like leaves are broader and fold neatly inside each other and the flowers have two green spots on the inner petals, which sometimes fuse together. Ht. up to 30cm

And there was me thinking that they all look the same…

Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’

(avellana – connected with Avella, Italy)

As Bridge likes to tell us, corkscrew hazel or ‘Harry Lauder’s walking stick’ was discovered in about 1863 in a hedgerow at Frocester in Gloucestershire, probably a mutation of native hazel, and every plant from then on originated from that one. It is a deciduous shrub with strongly twisted branches which are highly sculptural against a winter sky. Golden yellow catkins appear on the bare branches in late winter followed by fresh green slightly twisted leaves.

Plant with winter in mind in a place where it will stand out – the summer version is unremarkable! It prefers damp fertile soils in full sun or partial shade but is very tough and will thrive just about anywhere once established. Ht. 2.5 to 4m. RHS AGM🏆

Euphorbia myrsinites

(myrsinites – resembling Myrsine, a genus of plants in the Primulaceae family.

Myrtle spurge or broad-leaved glaucous spurge is a prostrate, semi-trailing form of Euphorbia with stems of blue-green, waxy leaves crowned with lime-green flowers in spring. The scale-like leaves overlap all the way down the stem giving a sculptural effect.

This drought-tolerant plant is great for any hot, sunny spot just make sure it doesn’t sit in wet soil over winter. Ht. 15cm RHS AGM 🏆

Jobs for this week

Helpfully, the tasks for the week had been written up on the blackboard so we had already been plotting to pitch for our favourites…

…but first there was what can only be described as a ‘Staff Team Building’ exercise. Last year, heartbreakingly, Paul lost a lot of plants in the unusually icy and windy spring weather. To try to prevent this happening again he planned to rig up some protection for the ‘open-sided’ poly-tunnel which could be lowered as needed to give some shelter. Two vast sheets of plastic had to be unfolded then rolled…

Ready, steady….roll! What a team…

Pot up Crocosmia and Alliums

It really is great to pot things up in such a well-designed, built for purpose space…beats balancing a bag of compost on the garden table and scrabbling round for pots.

Crocosmia ‘Carmine Brilliant’

Crocosmia ‘Joey Hoey’

Top dress pots

There were hundreds of plants which have been grown on and will be due for sale later this year. They need a boost of nutrients and the best way to do this is to add a layer of strongly mixed compost and Osmocote plant food. This is much stronger than would be needed for the whole pot, in fact if you potted on in this strength it would likely kill your plants.

Take the top 1-2cm off the top of the pot, weeding and tidying the plant as you go, then top up with the mix.

Label carefully and Bob’s your uncle!

Take root cuttings

Taking root cuttings isn’t hard but it can look quite drastic! First, identify the plants which are able to withstand having their roots disturbed and cut back . Remove from their pot, dig up or dig down around the plant enough to expose some roots without removing the plant entirely (useful for plants with a long taproot which won’t like being disturbed). There are two ways to grow root cuttings: vertically for thick-rooted plants  and horizontally for thin-rooted plants. Today this group were making horizontal cuttings of various cultivars of Phlox and some Macleaya microcarpa .  

Find some healthy, looking sections of root – those on the outside will be most vigourous – and cut sections 5-10cm long. Lay them on a tray of a compost and grit mix, working quickly so the cuttings don’t dry out. press firmly onto the surface and cover with a layer of grit. Water gently

Potentially hundreds of new plants from one parent plant, which could then be replanted – magic!

Sort out the seed packets

Paul collects and saves lots of seed from his plants, both for sowing for the nursery and for selling at plant fairs.

Labels needed to be put on the correct packets and some were to be filled too. A calm and meditative job with lots of time to chat!

Are they straight enough? Perfect!

Create a “Dedge”

What is a dedge I hear you ask. It’s a word made up by Paul to describe a dead hedge made with pruned branches, sticks and deadwood which in previous times would be destined for a bonfire. Stakes had been driven in to mark the shape of the “dedge” and to hold the material in place.

Some of the sticks, including willow and cornus, were woven along the outer stakes then the middle filled up.

This turned unwanted prunings into an attractive, wildlife friendly feature. Win win!

Make some woodland paths

There were some grass walkways between beds and hedges that become muddy and slippery in the wet weather. A better solution was needed…

First, find a large quantity of cardboard and remove any tape or staples…

…then lay it along the path. This will kill off any grass and weeds underneath and help bind the woodchips.

Lay a thick layer of woodchips on top and trample it down carefully…

Wonderful! So good, in fact, they made another next to the “dedge”!

We had a lovely time at Pelham Plants – thank you Paul for making us welcome. We will return in the spring in time to lend a hand ahead of Chelsea 2024 – watch this space.

Friday 26th January

Our group was slightly depleted this week due to some members having outside duties, or being on holiday (lucky things), and others falling victim to the numerous viruses and bugs going around (not so lucky). However, we gathered in the gorgeous January sun which is really giving hints of spring, even if that’s a way off.

Ident

Deborah had collected some examples of plants for winter interest and/or evergreen structure in the garden. Since starting at the Garden House, I have found that shrubs are the hardest group for me to recognise, name and commit to memory. I’m hoping this will help…

Garrya elliptica

(Garrya – named for Nicholas Garry, who was secretary of the Hudson’s Bay Company circa 1820-35 . Elliptaca – shaped like an ellipse in reference to the shape of the leaves)

The silk tassel bush is a large shrub or small tree that is dioecious – growing as separate male and female plants. They are vigorous and evergreen with wavy-edged, leathery leaves which are shiny on top and felted underneath. Long silvery-grey catkins, which shine out amongst the darker foliage, develop on the male plants in January and February. The lesser-used female plants produce clusters of long, purple-brown fruits in summer.

They are good coastal windbreak plants as they are extremely tough but offer a stunning feature in a winter garden – grown against, or possibly trained up a wall to display the catkins to their best effect. Any reasonable soil, any position and hardy throughout most of the U.K. - how often do I say that? Ht. up to 4m after 10 years.

Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica

( cirrhosa – with tendrils)

Otherwise known as the fern-leaved clematis, most of us assumed this was the cultivar ‘Freckles’ when Deborah showed it to us as there is a gorgeous example of it at GH. This, however, is slightly different with a paler, more creamy flower. These slightly fragrant flowers are speckled with reddish-maroon spots and appear from December to February, contrasting with bronze-tinged, evergreen, ferny leaves. These are followed by whiskery seedheads. This is a wonderfully attractive winter plant which does best trained over a sunny, sheltered pergola, arch or doorway with its roots in moist but well-drained soil but out of the direct sun. It is a ‘Group 1 Clematis’, meaning that it requires very little pruning, only enough to restrict its growth or to remove any damaged parts after flowering. Ht. up to 2.5m trained.

Taxus baccata

(baccata – bearing berries)

The common yew is a medium-sized bushy, dioecious evergreen tree with tiny, narrow, leathery, dark green leaves arranged in two rows on the shoots. Small red berries appear on female plants in late summer. Growth is slow to moderate but the density of foliage makes for excellent shaping and topiary requiring only one pruning per year, generally in late summer. It is increasingly used as an alternative to box.

Yews are known for their versatility, longevity, and adaptability to different growing conditions. They can tolerate a range of soil types but prefer well-drained soil. Ht. up to 12m if left unpruned. Caution – Yew leaves are highly toxic to humans and animals if ingested.

Teucrium x lucidrys

( I could not find a meaning for lucidrys)

The hybrid germander is a low- growing bushy plant with dark green crinkly edged, glossy leaves and short spires of small pink flowers in early summer. It is highly drought-tolerant and gives a fresh-green look among more grey-green “dry” plants. It needs full sun and a light, well-drained soil.

I think it is the same plant we have looked at before – Teucrium chamaedrys that is edging the herb beds at GH – just a confusion in the naming.

Now for three Pittisporums…this is a genus of about 200 evergreen trees and shrubs from Australasia and Oceana with some found in areas of Asia and Africa. They come in various sizes, from large and conical to compact and domed, with shiny, often variegated or colourful leaves and small scented flowers. You can also grow them as hedging or clipped into simple shapes. They like a sunny, sheltered location and well-drained soil. Some are hardy but many need protection in harsh winters.

Pittisporum tenuifolium ‘Country Park Dwarf’

(tenuifolium – with slender leaves)

This is one of the hardiest mound-forming types and has striking leaves which start off green then turn purple-black with typical wavy edges. Small chocolate-purple, honey scented flowers appear in spring. Estimates of eventual height range from 60cm to 4m! I suspect it is on the lower side.

Pittisporum tobira ‘Nanum’

(tobira – from the Japanese name for this shrub, nanum – dwarf)

The dwarf Japanese mock-orange is a compact, rounded evergreen shrub, covered in honey-scented, creamy-white flowers in late spring and early summer, while its glossy, deep green leaves form a neat bushy mound. It is less hardy than some so perfect for a sunny patio or an enclosed courtyard garden, or grown against a sunny wall or in a container which could be moved in harsh weather. It needs moist, well-drained soil. Ht. up to 1m

Pittisporum tenuifolium ‘Golf Ball’

This densely-growing, compact form has brighter, mint-green foliage and is good for adding more formal, architectural structure into the garden, including as a low-growing hedge or as a shaped container plant . Honey-scented, reddish-brown flowers appear in spring and early summer. Ht. up to 1m.

Some of our number had bought in examples of plants that were looking good in their gardens – these were from Richard’s garden…

Carex elata ‘Aurea’

Lonicera fragrantissima

Sarcococca hookeriana

Viburnum x bodnantense ‘Pink Dawn’

Camellia

and from Sarah’s garden…

Euonymous fortunii

Santolina

Rosa ‘Helenae’

Carol had some winter jasmine…

Jasminum nudiflorum

… and there are early daffodils coming out at Veryan’s…

Narcissi ‘Tete-a-tete’

Jobs for the week.

As we were low on numbers and some of the listed jobs were not possible to do without our absent leader’s advice, we pitched in where we could.

Emptying and spreading compost

The compost was overdue for a good sort out. One of the sections needed emptying and today was the day!

The compost was to be spread around on the winter beds to improve the soil and act as a mulch. There was some grumbling about the contents…bits of crock, twigs and branches that were way too big, plastic labels and sellotape. These should not be going into the compost bins and we considered ourselves well and truly ticked off…

I see what they mean!

Sorting the leaf-litter

Some time ago a dedicated, open composter was set up just for leaves. Leaves take quite some time to compost down but eventually produce fantastic, crumbly, fine compost which can be added to others for extra nutrients or as a seed compost. The only trouble is that the good stuff is at the bottom…

Take the top layers off keeping them on a large tarpaulin, locate the decent stuff and bag it up, then put the un-rotted leaves back in…phew!

Sow seeds

Although it is still January, it is a good time to get some plants going from seed. Today there were sweet peas, Eschscholzia californica and others to get started.

Root trainers come in hand for sweet peas as they provide space for the long tap-roots to develop and help prevent root disturbance when potting the plant on.

Tend to the house plants

The succulents in the conservatory were due for a tidy-up and watering…

…and there were other plants to be tidied too…

Then it was time for a break, some cake and a wind-down, all helped by a very friendly pooch!

No cake for you Ronnie!

See you next time.

Friday 19th January

It was lovely to be back together at the Garden House and to wish each other a …

Happy New Year!

Last week we met in groups and were given a design task. Each group had to create a mood board for a different type of garden, Contemporary, Coastal, Exotic, or Wildlife friendly / sustainable.

We went armed with magazines and catalogues, scissors and glue to houses volunteered by a member of each group (giving us the chance to do some garden snooping and cake eating). Many thanks to those who hosted the get-togethers.

Each group had to find:

• Materials for hard landscaping of a patio

• What path – materials and shape?

• Arches and pergola

• Seating

• Focal points/ sculptures / containers

• Fencing or barriers

Soft landscaping 

• A tree

• 10 key plants 

We then bought everything in to share with each other this week. Needless to say, there were discussions about how big our imaginary gardens might be, how much money would be available and we all went over the allotted “ten key plants” – some more than others and we justified it by knowing that Bridge would never stick to just ten!

Coastal Group

This group imagined a south-facing garden, bordering a beach, with direct sea views with close-board fencing to create a boundary and wind break. The fence and other wooden structures such as the pergola, which has a transparent tarpaulin, would be painted an inky blue.

Stepping stones placed in among the shingle and pebbles and planted between with aromatic thyme, create a natural-looking, curving path. Seating areas at various points include gabions topped with driftwood planks and contrasting hot-pink chairs and are placed so the garden can be appreciated throughout the day. A dramatic circle of weathered driftwood provides a sculptural frame for the sea view from the seating area. This is to be left unadorned by climbers to give contrast to the surrounding planting.

Tall, rusted-metal planters would be filled with a variety of plants including spring bulbs, prostrate rosemary and agapanthus, giving year-round interest and structure. An Amelanchier x lamarckii tree would be another focal point.The ten key plants are Lavender ‘Hidcote’, Eryngium giganteum, Stipa tenuissima, Echinops, pink Phlomis and Hydrangea, Salvia nemorosa, Astrantia major’White Giant’, Erigeron and Phormium but they might also sneak in some Allium, Tulip and Crocus bulbs, Verbena bonariensis and Rosa rugosa . These would give a restricted palette of silver-blues, soft pinks and violet to reflect natural coastal colour.

What a gorgeous mood-board…I want to move there now.

Contemporary Group

This group went for an ultra-stylish, no expense spared look with lots of clean lines and high-end materials such as Corten steel, stainless steel, polished concrete, stone and oiled wood .

Patios would be made from large stone pavers, contrasted with sections of hardwood, with a white “sail” above for shade. Paths of concrete sections set into granite chippings become an architectural feature themselves. Fences and barriers of horizontal slats in stainless and Corten steel, and sculptures in steel and bronze give strength and impact.

A rill of either light stone or Corten steel and a simple, clean-lined water feature would provide movement and reflections. The patio would house luxury garden seating and a designer wooden bench ( a mere snip at £3000!) would be placed artfully near the rill.

The group chose a silver birch as their tree but I have noticed that they also snuck in some topiary containers and a conifer or two. Elegant containers in metal or concrete and controlled planting areas would be planted with Sanguisorba, white Agapanthus, white Alliums, black and golden bamboo, clipped Germander, Phormium, Melianthus and ferns . Grasses such as Miscanthus and Pennisetum planted with Kniphofia ‘Little Maid’ would add height and movement. Rosa ‘Iceberg’ would climb over an elegant metal pergola.

A fabulous, stylish and calming mood board. Can I change my mind and move here?

Exotic Group

The exotic group (both mood board and contributors) took inspiration from visits to gardens at Abbotsbury, Kew, Wisely, Great Dixter and Dan Cooper’s garden at Broadstairs and decided they wanted a jungly feel with vibrant planting and architectural features. .

A patio/decking area and minimalist pergola would both be sourced in dark hardwood and this would be mirrored in the snaking path of dark wood sleepers placed transverse with gaps between. Fencing would also be of plain dark wood or of bamboo, either planted or woven panels… it was felt that this wouldn’t be seen much through the dense planting. Rattan table and chairs would enhance the jungle feel.

Focal points would be the specimen tree Tetrapanax papyrifer or Chinese rice paper plant with its large palmate leaves, and a large water-feature container with small bubbling fountain.

Planting incudes climbers Passiflora x violacea and Trachleospermum for the pergola and architectural plants – Phylostachys aureosulcata f.aureocaulis or golden grove bamboo, Phormium tenax ‘Sundowner’, Canna ‘Striata’, Hedychium densiflorum (ginger) and Fatsia japonica.

This would be underplanted with hot and contrasting colours of Hosta ‘Captain Kirk’, Hakonechloa macra, Khiphofia and a triumvirate of Bishop Dahlias – Llandaff, Oxford and Canterbury.

The ideas of a richly coloured, densely planted, tall and jungle-like scheme are perfectly reflected in the packed mood board. Now I really want an exotic garden too.

Wildlife friendly / Sustainable group

This group decided, quite early on, that the brief was there to be challenged and, therefore, ended up with way more plants than allowed but more on that later! After some discussion about whether this was a rural or urban garden, and the tensions regarding which types of wildlife we wanted to attract and how “managed” the space would be we decided that this is an urban garden with lots of space – how convenient.

Instead of fencing, boundaries would be of mixed hedging to include Crataegus (hawthorn), Prunus spinosa (blackthorn), holly and ivy. This combination would give protection, food and nesting spaces for a wide variety of birds and insects for most of the year while the gaps beneath give access into the garden for a variety of creatures, including hedgehogs, while fallen leaf-litter provides a safe hibernation place.

Paths and seating areas would be formed with reclaimed pavers and/or crazy paving with gravel between the stones allowed to fill with herbs, creeping plants or even weeds. A pergola might be made from reclaimed timber and wooden seating sourced second-hand. Log piles, stumps and “bug hotels” would double up as wildlife habitats and sculptural focal points. There would be a variety of water features throughout the garden including a sloping sided pond, smaller container ponds and bird-baths, providing drink, bathing and breeding habitats. A compost heap is also a great habitat as well as a sustainable source of mulch/compost.

Now for the aforementioned planting. Our specimen tree was to be Malus sylvestris or European crabapple and there was to be an area of wildflower meadow which counted as one choice! Then “purple flowering plants” in general was another as insects, particularly bees, are attracted to them. They would include Lavender, Echium, Nepeta, Alliums, Salvias, Verbena bonariensis, Perovskia, Eryssium and Buddlea. Other useful plants could be Echinacea, Helianthus, Leucanthemum, Dipsacus (teasel), Digitalis, Cosmos, Erigeron, Geranium, Sedums and Grasses…phew. We justified the number of plants on the grounds of attracting as diverse a range of creatures as possible – so there !

I think I’ll have to, somehow, acquire a property where I can have all of these gardens.

What a lovely way to see through these January weeks and spark a few ideas for spring. In our idealised gardens there would be no pests or diseases but real life is not like that. Katie has been looking at the dreaded Honey Fungus and this is what she has found…

Honey Fungus

What is fungus?

Fungi are in a kingdom of their own when we are looking at classification.   The kingdom includes yeasts, moulds and mushrooms. They are more closely related to animals than plants because they do not make their own food through photosynthesis the way that plants do. Instead they get their food by breaking down plant material with digestive enzymes and then absorb it.  This makes them incredibly beneficial in many ways as they help to break down dead plant material in the soil and make nutrients available to plants.  There is now lots of evidence that they are also involved in plant communication.  They can create a web of connected plants and help to transmit nutrients and minerals from one plant to another by connecting root systems together.

A fungus is made up of a web of thread-like mycelium under the ground.  A collection of these mycelia can make a thread like structure called a rhizomorph.  What we normally think of as a fungus – the mushroom – is just the fruiting body of the fungus.  Most of the organism is under the ground and not normally visible.  A single organism can grow to enormous sizes when undisturbed. It is thought that some of the largest organisms in the world are fungi.  An Armillaria ostoyae has been found to cover over 2000 acres in the mountains of Oregon!

Fungi are really important for soil health and carbon capture.  Some are edible and are a good source of vitamins and protein.  Others are used in producing medicine –eg penicillin.

However, not all fungi are beneficial…

What is honey fungus?

Honey fungus is the common name of several species of fungi within the genus Armillaria. There are 7 different species of Armillaria but only two are commonly found in UK gardens – A. gallica and A. mellea.  A. mellea is the more destructive of the two and is harder to get rid of.  It spreads underground, attacking and killing the roots of perennial plants and then decaying the dead wood. It is the most destructive fungal disease in UK gardens. It mainly affects trees and woody and herbaceous perennials and can destroy large areas of plants in gardens.  It spreads through rhizomorphs or ‘bootstraps’ in the ground and through spores.  The rhizomorphs can grow up to 1 m a year so that over time, if undetected, a large area can be affected. 

How to identify:

Although honey coloured mushrooms may appear in autumn, the fungus can be present for many years before they appear.  Signs of honey fungus are:

Cracked or bleeding bark at the base of a tree

Die back of upper parts of a plant

Sudden death of whole plant when water levels are low

Gradual decline in plant health over several years

Profuse flowering or fruiting just before plant death

Premature autumn colour

Lack of flowers on a previously healthy plant

When peeling back the bark you may find a layer of white mycelium between the bark and the wood.

You may find black ‘bootstraps’ of rhizomes under the bark and in the ground around the infected plant.

How to control:

Honey fungus, once established, is hard to eradicate.  There is no form of chemical control available.  The only way to get rid of it is by removing all infected plant material, including stumps and roots, and destroying it by burning or sending to landfill.  The soil surrounding an infected plant should be dug over thoroughly and any rhizomorphs removed.  Repeated digging over of the area will help to break up and kill any remaining fungus.

Nearby plants may also need to be removed and the area dug over.

Maintain good plant health. Plants that are well nourished, watered and pruned are better able to survive fungus infection.

Remove any build up of soil around the bottom of stems and trunks.  Plants that are planted deeply are more susceptible to infection.

Install a plastic barrier sheet.  Rhizomorphs grow between 2-8 inches under the ground so a layer of plastic sheeting can prevent their spread.

Once dug over, soil should be left for 1 year before re-planting. 

When re-planting, choose more resistant species.  RHS has a long list of susceptible and resistant species.

Vulnerable plants – woody stemmed plants can be affected.  However, some seem to be particularly vulnerable.  Eg Birch, Buddleia, Ceanothus, Cotoneaster,  Cypress, Forsythia, Oak, Willow, Lilac.

More resistant plants – Bamboo, Box, Cheanomeles, Cordyline, Erica, Ginko, Jasmine, Pittosporum, Sarcococca.

Thank you so much for that, Katie, even if it was terrifying.

Let’s calm ourselves with some views of the Garden House on this frosty morning .

That’s better – see you next time.